ELEPHANT SEALS

I visited the Falkland Islands for two weeks in December 2004.  After two 8 hour flights via Ascension Island, you land at Mount Pleasant Airfield in East Falkland, about an hour's drive from Port Stanley, the capital.  From there it is a 2½ hour drive on rough road and across country to Volunteer Point, where the main attraction is a large colony of King Penguins.  Many were sitting on their single egg, but last year's brown fluffy youngsters were waddling about.  King and Gentoo Penguins were regularly crossing the beach to reach the sea, and the blowing sand made for some atmospheric photographs.

After two days, we flew  to Sea Lion Island, a small island reached in about 40 min by Islander aircraft.  The Lodge is very  comfortable and close to Elephant Seals and Sea Lions, and to several Penguin colonies.   Striated Caracara ("Johnny Rook") are common, and other birds such as Snipe and Wrens allow a close approach.  Towards the western end of the Island is a large Rockhopper and King Cormorant colony, and other birds on the Island include Silvery Grebe, Night Heron, Great Skua, Southern Giant Petrel,   and Peregrine Falcon.  Upland and Ruddy-headed Geese are also common.

From Sea Lion Island, a 50 min flight takes you to Saunders Island off the north coast of West Falkland.  Here we stayed in a 'Portakabin' with only basic facilities, but in a fantastic position overlooking a beach at The Neck.  The main attraction was the colony of Black-browed Albatross on the cliffs.  Many were sitting on their large mud nests with their one egg under them, while others soared in the air currents over the cliffs.  Penguins and other birds were also in abundance and very approachable.  It was a magical experience to have beautiful scenery and fascinating wildlife literally on one's doorstep.